I spent a long and amazing Saturday, checking out two different flea markets, experiencing pure culinary delights at Le Soleil, taking a 3-hour walk through 17th Arrondissement, and visiting Montmarte.
Flea Markets
It would have been really difficult for me to write much more about the Porte Clignancourt markets, as I didnt really get the chance to check them out properly. It was massive and very crowded. There were touts who greeted me in Chinese, Japanese, and Korean everywhere. Yes, I was mildly impressed by their linguistic capability. And yes, they frighten me a bit. Friend and I came to discover that was just one component of the flea markets. Away from these open-air markets, were numerous tiny lanes leading to quaint antiques and furnitures shops. Just as per my internet research, one needs to know what to buy, before heading out to Porte Clignancourt. This is because, apart from antiques and furnitures, one is supposed to find vintage clothings, and many other treasures. It was indeed a fun place to get lost in, if one has got the luxury of time.
Fortunately, I was able to pick up interesting stuff from the temporary flea market at La Motte Picquet, earlier that morning. In fact, the visit to the flea market at La Motte Picquet was unplanned. Part of the reason why we didnt have enough time for Porte Clignancourt was because we spent way too much time there. I’m not really complaining though. Especially when I was able to shop more comfortably at La Motte Picquet, without being disturbed by touts.

La Motte Picquet temporary flea market

Delightful finds! A vintage Elle Magazine from 1956, and a set of old Kookai postcards.



The St-Ouen-Porte de Clignancourt flea market (Marché aux Puces), opens Saturday to Sunday, from 0900 to 1800. Nearest metro is Porte de Clignancourt, on line 4. As mentioned, it is best to research on what you’re looking for, and where exactly to find them at the markets, before you leave home. It is impossible to cover the entire place in just one day, especially if you’re the type of shopper who tend to spend one or two hours at just one shop.
Paris Greeters and 17th Arrondissement
Remember my mention of Paris Greeters, in a seperate entry, not too long ago? In this entry, I’ll take you on a narrative walk with me, as I try to put all the details I could remember together.
I have to apologise in advance that there really aren’t too many photos to share, as I was really caught up in the conversation with my guide.
Our meeting point was outside a restaurant at Place de Clichy, a strategic intersection of 8, 9, 17, and 18 Arrt (Arrondissement). I remembered vividly how it drizzled that day, and how my feet hurt from trekking around the Porte Clignancourt flea market. I was apologetically late for the meeting, but Fabienne still greeted me cheerfully with a bright and genuine smile.
Fabienne was to take us through the neighbourhoods on the 17th arrondissement. I was really thrilled to discover the off-beaten paths of Paris. It turned out that this district has quite a heterogeneous population- the rich, the young and trendy, and the working class, occupying different parts of the district. It is also a district where one can marvel at the many fine old Haussmanian style and art-deco residential buildings. Of notesworthy is the fact that, Paris is pretty different from other parts of France, in terms of housing. Almost everyone lives in an apartment. In fact, it has been mentioned that stand-alone houses only take up 1% of the housing market in Paris.

Cites des Fleurs, an exclusive neighbourhood, where a new occupant needs to seek the common consensus of all other existing occupants, before he/she is allowed to purchase the place, and live there. I do think that it’s an absolute measure to preserve the character of a place.
She then walked us through Marché des Batignolles, a market which is pretty similar to Rue Cler. Besides food, there were a couple other shops that sell clothing and other specialty items. Then we came to Square des Batignolles, the largest green park in 17th Arrt, set in English-style.

A view of haussmanian style building from Square des Batignolles
Moving on, we were shown where the development and construction of the “Olympic Village” should have been. There were great plans to develop this area, but it was unfortunate that Paris lost her hosting rights for 2012 Olympics to London. I couldnt recall exactly what the alternative plans are. We’ll see, as time pass =)
Another interesting sight from the walk was clock tower of the Church of Saint Michel des Batignolles, on Passage St Michel. Atop the clock tower, stands a shiny golden statue of Saint Michel. The same statue could be found on Abbaye du Mont Saint Michel in Normandy (France). Another mental note that I need to visit this wonder of the medival world, when I have the chance.

Fabienne also pointed out a shop where famous impressionist artists, including Monet, used to get their painting supplies, and it was surprisingly still around after so many years! Another thing worth mentioning is that, Quartier des Batignolles on the 17th Arrt was a cultural area, where many notable artists used to live (due to cheap rents).
The walk in the 17th Arrt provided a refreshing angle for me to see real Parisians in real neighbourhoods. It’s true that 17th Arrt has no world-famous spots to boast about, but the charm that lingers in this untouched neighbourhood touches me. As this area is close by to Montmarte and Moulin Rouge, I’d recommend at least a quick hop-over to the 17th Arrt to check out it’s local-accented cafes or restaurants, without paying tourist-prices at similar places at Montmarte. I have yet to try them myself, but would definitely love to.
Walking tours need to be pre-booked, preferably a few weeks in advance. Because the tour relies on volunteers, do note that they’re not guranteed. As courtesy, I’d also strongly discourage last minute cancellations (just because you want to spend more time at Louis Vuitton boutique, or checking out sales racks at Les Soldes). I’d hate to see Paris Greeters getting dissolved because of such logistics problems from inconsiderate visitors.
Montmarte
Due to the proximity to 17th Arrt, friend and I decided to squeeze a whirlwind tour of Montmarte, primarily to check out Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Jesus of Paris (Basilique du Sacré-Cœur). It could have been very possible that the landmark’s prominence with tourists is associated with its vantage location on the highest point of Paris.
The basilica was built of travertine stone quarried in Château-Landon (Seine-et-Marne), with Romano-Byzantine features. Symbols of nationalism are depicted on the basilica. For example, the two equestrain statues represent Joan of Arc and King Saint Louis IX, both regarded as national saints of France.
I did not get the chance to visit the entire basilica’s complex, which was said to include a beautiful garden and a dome that allows a paranomic view looking out, over Paris. The interior of the basilica was serene, and breathtakingly beautiful. There was a service taking place when I visited that saturday evening. The whole chapel was filled with sweet melody of the choir, accompanied by soothing music from the organ. Candles lined both sides of the chapel, giving it a very surreal, but yet comforting serenity that I have never felt before. As this is a religious site, do respect the prohibitive signs- photography is not allowed.

The furnicular that transport you up to the basilica, with the cost of one metro ticket (Zone 1). You may find it an unnecessary waste of money, if you’re fit enough for the stairs.


The vantage point of the basilica, with a sweeping view over Paris
We had dinner at the “Artist’s Village” where one could find the touristy glory of souvenir shops, restaurants and bars… But that was not all. A few artists set up makeshift space, and offer to paint a life portrait of curious tourists (at a price of course). Nonetheless, it was an interesting sight.


I really couldn’t resist more shots of the basilica, by night!



To see Montmarte, and learn more about the culture and history behind it, you may wish to check out City Free Tour. It is another interesting free walking tour that takes place every Saturday and Sunday. I have not tried it personally, but do check out the reviews on Tripadvisor.
As you’ve figured, I’ve really done too much in one day! All of the mentioned places could be covered over 2-3 days, if you’d prefer to be thorough. Personally, I hate the feeling of missing out on places, by being “so-near-yet-so-far”. Travelling is a great way to relax the mind. It is only when the mind is set in a relaxed state, that we, as travellers can start to truly see and open up to the culture and way of life.
I hope my posts aren’t getting too draggy. More to update tommorrow!